Blog #18: Ethiopia is an enchanting country to visit, so I don’t understand why it has hardly any tourists.
Ethiopia may well be the birthplace of Homo sapiens as well as the home of Ardipithicus ramidus, the oldest known hominid (human relative). Its prehistory and history are long and unique, with some amazing remnants of the past to visit. And the link with the Queen of Sheba is fascinating. Unlike other African countries, Ethiopia very effectively resisted colonization. It has beautiful mountains and hills as well as lakes and rivers, wildlife, friendly people, and interesting cultures. I decided to go alone to check it out, even if no one else was going. I selected the picture shown along with the blurb because few people know that Ethiopia has such beautiful places.
The culture, including people, is truly the unique aspect of Ethiopia that attracts nearly all of the few foreigners who visit. I’ll repeat a little of what I wrote in Blog #17 regarding Lalibela, Ethiopia. (Who will stop me from plagiarizing myself?) Then, I’ll continue with additional perspective.
Ethiopia is a double enigma. As the only African nation to resist European colonialism, until Italian Fascists partially occupied the land just prior to and early in World War II, it has a fascinating prehistory and history dating from the first hominids and humans that is not at all understood. Secondly, it is a beautiful country with a fascinating landscape and culture, including friendly people: so why has it been so thoroughly ignored by travelers?
Before discussing cultural aspects, I’ll start by noting that Ethiopia has all the animals one expects to find in Africa. However, there are just lower numbers than one can find in the usual tourist wildlife destinations. To counter this, if you’ve seen lots of wildlife, it might be good to visit and see some wildlife not found elsewhere. In the Simien Mountains it was easy to see the Gelada monkey, which is much like a baboon and endemic to Ethiopia. In fact, a troop of a few hundred did not
A species endemic to Ethiopia, the gelada monkey (Thercopithecus gelada) is the size of a baboon for the male I photographed here. Simien Mountains, Ethiopia. (2024)
Mom’s tail is the best way to get on the back for this gelada monkey toddler. Babies get help to hold on to the underside. Simien Mountains. (2024)
Lammergeier or bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus). Simien Mountains National Park. (2024)
mind me hanging around in their midst for a while. I personally did not see the endemic Ethiopian wolf, but I understand there are places where the chance is very high. There are also endemic species of antelope among the large variety of antelopes and gazelles in the country, as well as other endemic animals. I’m not a birder, but I gather that Ethiopia is a super spot for bird watching with a great variety of species.
Most of Ethiopia’s landscape is attractive. It is considerably more mountainous and hilly than you might imagine from watching African documentaries. I will restrict myself to showing just two other landscape pictures besides that shown on the blurb page. One is of the Blue Nile Falls, about 30 km SE of Bahir Dar. I have seen Murchison Falls on the White Nile in Uganda, and these are more impressive in my opinion, although quite different in character. While I only traveled in the middle and northern part of the country, I can attest that there are many picturesque places.
Main part of the Blue Nile Falls (aka Tis Abay) 30 km SE of its origin in Lake Tana, Amhara, Ethiopia. (2024)
Here I’ll repeat a little of what I wrote in Blog #17 regarding Lalibela, Ethiopia. (Who will stop me from plagiarizing myself?) Then, I’ll continue with additional insights.
Ethiopia is a double enigma. As the only African nation to resist European colonialism, until Italian Fascists partially occupied the land just prior to and early in World War II,
A tuk tuk, an ubiquitous form of transport in much of the world, is the foreground for the “Finger of God”, one of many rocky monoliths in northern Ethiopia. This is on the road between Bahir Dar and Gondar in Amhara. (2024)
it has a fascinating prehistory and history dating from the first hominids and humans that is not at all understood. Secondly, it is a beautiful country with a fascinating landscape and culture, including friendly people: so why has it been so thoroughly ignored by travelers? To the first point: there are academics who have tried to decipher the various pieces of evidence to develop a history of the nation. This may not necessarily be in accord with the history that every Ethiopian knows, the history that was given in the Kebra Negast, which was written in the early 14th century using several other written sources and tells the history based on a Solomonic origin in the 10th century BCE, based on Solomon’s intimate relationship with the Queen of Sheba, whose home was northern Ethiopia. Most (probably all) modern scholars do not consider it to be historically accurate, but Ethiopians are fully convinced of their origin story and its continued development. There are enough other writings and historical events that touch on the story to give it a feel that “it should be true”. Indeed, the Kebra Negast is not a completely fabricated narrative: there is evidence to support aspects of it.
Ardipithecus ramidus skeleton (4.2 million years old) found in Ethiopia and housed in the National Museum of Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia (2024).
Far predating that “history” of 3000 years, it is well-established that the oldest known hominid skeleton of Ardipithicus ramidus from 4.2 million years ago and the best-preserved hominid skeleton of 3.2 million years ago, the Australopithecus afarensis called “Lucy” were found in Ethiopia; both are in the National Museum of Ethiopia in Addis Ababa. The oldest known skeleton from a Homo sapiens, 200,000 years old, is also from Ethiopia.
Ruins of the Almaqah Temple (~2700 years old) being excavated in Yeha, Ethiopia. It is dedicated to the Sabean moon god. (2024)
There are several references to trade with the land of Punt in Egyptian records beginning at least 4600 years ago. Paintings and descriptions of the people and animals point to it being in the Horn of Africa including northern and eastern Ethiopia. In this area, a civilization called D’mt (aka Di’amat) arose. Not much is known about it, but there are
recent excavations in Yeha, Ethiopia, which appears to be the capital, that date back at least 2700 years ago. The exact relationship of this so-called Pre-Axumite society with Saba is still a matter of debate. It is generally understood that Saba consisted of Yemen, a small part of southern Arabia, current Eritrea, and Northern Ethiopia.
One of dozens of stelae, most apparently dating to the fourth century BCE, in Axum. The tallest is 23 m high. There are several burial sites and palace ruins nearby dating from a later time, that of the Axum Kingdom. (2024)
Not far west of Yeha is the town of Axum, which was the capital of the Axumite Empire, considered by scholars to be the origin of Ethiopia. How this empire originated is very murky; though some conjecture it is an export from the Saba, most believe it derived from the D’mt. Quite interestingly, there are several large megaliths and some partially excavated palaces in Axum that date from the 4th century BCE, predating the Axumite empire. Mingling with those stelae, there are several other burial sites and palace ruins from the powerful Axumite Kingdom, which covered a large region including the Arabian Peninsula as well as the Horn of Africa in the third-sixth centuries CE.
The Ezana Stone named for the most prominent king of the Axum Kingdom, who lived in the fourth century and converted to Christianity. The ~2-meter high stone records his conversion to Christianity and his conquests in Greek, Sabean, and Ge’ez, the predominant language of Ethiopia still. The grandson of the guy who found it proudly showed it to me. (2024)
In the 1970’s, the Ezana Stone was found in Axum and pushed back up in place. It describes the conversion of the pre-eminent Axumite King Ezana to Christianity in the early 4th century and his subsequent conquests of neighbors. The Stone is remarkable for being trilingual, similar to the Rosetta Stone: Greek, Sabean, and Ge’ez, the semitic language of Ethiopia still in use.
In the context of the country’s “history”, it is noted in Judaic, Christian and Islamic writings that the Queen of Sheba (more generally known as Saba or Saeba) came from what is now the northern part of Ethiopia to visit King Solomon in Jerusalem. They conceived a son, but the queen (named Makeda) returned home anyway. As a young adult, that son, in Ethiopian history named Menelik (a mashed form of the Hebrew term for Son of the King) came on his own to Jerusalem, was received joyously as he stayed three years to study Judaism and returned home to establish the line of kings that continued until 1974 when King Haile Selassie was deposed.
In this history, a crucial event was that the son of Solomon’s High Priest took the Ark of the Covenant and, with 1000 people from each of the 12 tribes of Israel, came with Menelik to Ethiopia. Solomon did not divulge the transfer to forestall an uprising. A recent article [JA López, National Geographic History, Dec. 12, 2025] discusses the whereabouts of the Ark and gives more details. There are many references in the Old Testament to ties with Ethiopia (aka Abyssinia and, in the Bible, Cush), and other writings support the geographically strange connection. There is also some archeological evidence to support it as well. In addition, several black Jews lived in Ethiopia for centuries, but their religious tradition incorporated only the early history of Judaism consonant with the Queen of Sheba – Menelik story; in the late 20th century, nearly all of the Ethiopian Jews were airlifted to Israel.
According to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, the original >3000 yr old Ark of the Covenant is located in the old Maryam Tsion Cathedral, the building at the left, in Axum. The newer Maryam Tsion Cathedral is at the right. I took this picture from the rear. (2024)
Priest in Bet Methane Alem (Church of the Redeemer of the World) in Lalibela, Ethiopia, holding the original gold Lalibela Cross, weighing 7 kg and thought to be made in the 12th century. The cross is displayed only on special occasions. Bet Methane Alem is the largest rock-hewn monolith in the world. (2024)
For much of its history, Ethiopia has simultaneously had all three Abrahamic religions, which more or less coexisted peacefully. However, centuries ago there were a couple Christian-Islam conflicts. Today, about 44% of the population belong to the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church, about 34% are Muslim, and the rest are generally Catholics, Protestants or animists. While there is some geographical religious tendency, in general they integrate well right down to the neighborhood or village level.
The Islamic tradition of Ethiopia is pretty standard Sunni. However, the version of Orthodoxy of the Ethiopian church is unique; the closest is the Coptic Church of Egypt, which had sent missionaries in establishing the Ethiopian church in the 4th century. However, it developed very differently and absorbed ancient Jewish practices, ostensibly due to the local presence of Jews, so that many of its rituals are practiced only in Ethiopian Orthodoxy. A core tenet of the church is that it has the original Ark of the Covenant and that is housed in the Holy of Holies of the old Maryam Tsion Cathedral in the old town of Axum. Each Ethiopian Orthodox church has a replica of the Tablets that Moses brought down
from Mt. Sinai and placed within the Ark; these symbols of the Law are kept out of view behind drapes except on the most important holidays. Some churches also have special gold crosses that are also only displayed on particular days.
Beginning in the 4th and certainly by the 5th century, the orthodox church began to establish numerous monasteries, often very remote and difficult to access. The artistic style expressed at that time within those churches was unique and that continues to the present time. I did visit some monasteries, including Abuna Yemata Guh, which is very difficult to access, especially for an 80-yr-old like I was.
In the Tigray region in the sixth century, Abuna Yemata Guh was carved out of a sandstone rock pillar about 250 meters (820 ft) above the base which is even higher above the surrounding ground level (see photo). To get there, it is necessary to climb barefoot (as it is holy ground). In places it is truly rock-climbing with small handholds (some good for only 1-2 fingers) and toeholds. I’m glad I’m reasonably tall: some of the reaches are challenging. In a couple places, a fall would go 250 m before hitting anything. The small carved-out church was dedicated to Abuna Yemata, one of the Nine Saints who were sent from the Coptic Church to establish the church in Ethiopia. Inside, the walls and ceiling were painted in the 15th century depicting the usual Christian personages plus the Nine Saints. The dry climate has preserved the paintings well. In addition, there are several other churches carved out of the Gheralta Escarpment that do not require the tough access.
The sixth century church of Abuna Yemata Guh, near Megab, Ethiopia, is located about 40% of the way up the tallest pillar on the right on the backside of this escarpment. An exhilarating barefoot climb mostly up this side is needed for access (see text). (2024)
Priest in Abuna Yemata Guh holding a 14th century book written and painted on goatskin. (2024)
Interior view of part of Abuna Yemata Guh’s 15th century painting in one dome and one wall. Nine of the Twelve Apostles are shown above with three other Apostles and other Old Testament figures depicted along the wall. Abuna Yemata is on the horse. The painting was done with local pigments directly on the rock surface with no evidence of retouch work except for Mary (not shown here). The text is in Ge’ez. (2024)
These drums in the Bet Golgotha church in Lalibela are not decoration. They are used in Ethiopian Orthodox religious celebrations that exult with drumming, dancing and singing. (2024)
Religious ceremonies in Ethiopian Orthodoxy are different. The drums shown in the photo are frequently used as drumming, singing, and dancing are an integral part of those ceremonies. It reminds me of my invited participation in an Ethiopian Orthodox ceremony on the roof of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem on Orthodox Easter many years ago. We all danced following a line with leaders dressed in animal skins drumming and dancing. Such drums are shown in the attached photo.
While there have been changes, the artistic style of the religious paintings has remained much the same over the centuries. Note that the interpretation of the Trinity in Orthodoxy means the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit (Ghost) are One and the same. So, their depiction in Ethiopian churches is identical, as you can see from the photo I took in Debre Berhan Selassie.
The interior of the 17th century church of Debre Berhan Selassie in the old capital of Gondar is covered in paintings by the same individual. This one depicts The Holy Trinity of The Father, The Son, and The Holy Spirit. Note that they all look the same. (2024)
Current Ethiopian culture includes coffee. If you have a little time, the roasting coffee beans are ground and the coffee brewed especially for you: it is indeed excellent. Check out the big sycamore tree in Axum where many coffee vendors await their customers.
Several coffee vendors are waiting with their gear, including plastic stools for customers, in anticipation of business here at the Piazza in Axum. (2024)
This painting is in the Ura Kidane Mihret monastery on Lake Tana, which was established in the 14th century, with the current round church dating from the 16th century. Jesus is depicted with disciples. (2024)
Freshly ground and brewed coffee in Lalibella. Near the monastery of Ura Kidane Mihret, mentioned above, I saw wild coffee growing. It is harvested and sold at a premium.(2024)
How local people live and work is a big part of any culture. The primary employment for the vast majority of people in Ethiopia is agriculture including herding. However, most of that is for local consumption. Methodology is typically pretty fundamental, not much different than it was centuries ago. There is a modern economy, but only a small number of people participate.
Plowing is hard work for man and beast, especially using the tools commonly employed. Amhara, Ethiopia. (2024)
I saw threshing of grain by driving oxen such as this in various places. This particular example is from the North Wollo Region. (2024)
Ethiopian music is a Thing. Largely developed in the 20th century, it is quite different from anything else I’ve ever heard. As I am not even remotely knowledgeable about the subject, I will not discuss it here. However, I was told that it is possible to hear the music if you are sufficiently persistent.
I did not travel in the southern part of the country, so I can only note that others have cited the Omo region as an outstanding area especially for its cultural traditions. I passed on going there for lack of sufficient time and personal misgivings, as some reports suggest access to the people in those cultures was exploitive whereas most places I have ever been I’ve felt welcome.
In most places in Ethiopia, I saw few or no other tourists. OK, I should confess that I understand now why some people may decide not to go to Ethiopia, especially alone. When I went, there were hostilities mainly between government forces and some rebels in Tigray. On that account, it was not possible to cross from the Amhara region into Tigray by land as originally planned. So, less than a week before arrival, it was necessary to alter my itinerary to fly much more than planned: flying in and out of Tigray posed no major problem. Fortunately, months earlier I had learned of a very competent and super nice guy, Abebe Tesfaw, who could act as my overall guide. He did not travel with me, except to show me Addis Ababa, but he made sure I had the various transport and hotel arrangements, and he could modify them daily if need be. Traveling on the road between Bahir Dar and the Simien Mountains, there are some places where bandits are in control. Fortunately, they do not specifically target tourists, although they do like a little money “for keeping the road safe for our travel”. I joked with them and my driver was a good negotiator, so the price of passage wasn’t much. (See Blog #4 for a little more about this type of payment.)