Blog #14: Get out of Prague! Check out the rest of Czechia.
Czechia has lots of interesting World Heritage Sites, the hilly country is not in the least over-touristed, and the people are friendly. Bohemia especially is beautiful, interesting, and relaxing. But don’t limit yourself to Český Krumlov, although I have chosen to use an overview of that beautiful town as the picture on this blog page.
While there are some tour buses that go to a few places such as Český Krumlov, it is best to use a car to explore The Czech Republic (now officially Czechia). Driving is also easy, as the traffic is not heavy, and I personally have never had any problem with parking. You can rent a car in Prague, but I picked up a rental car at the Munich airport each time I went (since I had other “business” in Bavaria).
Two times I based my stay in Telč, which I would gladly do again. Strictly speaking, Telč is far enough east that it is barely in Moravia rather than Bohemia, the western part of Czechia. The first time I traveled alone and stayed in the historic Hotel Telč, which was certainly nice and cozy. The next time, when accompanied by my wife, I rented a beautiful apartment in the Chornitzer House, right on the fantastic Námėstí Zachariáše z Hradece (Zacharias of Hradec Square, a World Heritage Site) that constitutes the center of town. The Chornitzer House is one of the historic old houses that surround the square, with the interior having been converted into a few spacious apartments.
Telč: Zacharias of Hradec Square (Námėstí Zachariáše z Hradece). The Chornitzer House is the one farthest to the right in the picture. The houses as seen today are chiefly from the 16th century. The houses form an arcade that goes around most of the square. (2007)
Telč: Baroque façade with sgraffiti typical of houses in Bohemia. (2007)
The pictures here show the characteristic style for the area: Renaissance architecture with some Baroque façades, dating from the 16th century. However, the castle and houses were built on the previous 14th century square of Gothic houses and castle. The castle – really a palace – is located at the north end of the long “square”. Going through the castle and its grounds is highly recommended, although photography is not permitted inside the building. The castle and buildings constituting the square are surrounded on three sides by water, basically ponds, which provide a peaceful ambience for an evening or early morning stroll.
A corner house in Telč on the main square. (2010)
Telč from across Ulický rybník. There are pleasant walking paths around a large portion of the lakes surrounding Telč. (2007)
I certainly didn’t see that many tourists in Telč any time I visited, but at most a handful of Czech visitors were evident in Slavonice, which is also a super place to visit less than an hour’s drive south from Telč. The mostly 16th century Renaissance houses in Slavonice rank it high enough so that it is on a Tentative List for World Heritage status.
Part of the grounds of Telč Castle. Tops of houses on the main square of Telč are visible to the right.(2010)
Slavonice: these houses are on the main square and display the sgraffiti typical of many. (2007)
I drove on small roads from Slavonice to Třeboň, , which permitted me to see a pretty part of Czechia I suspect other visitors don’t see, including numerous fish ponds. Fish farming was started in the 14th century, with the most famous network of ponds near Třeboň. I show a picture here of a small pond in the village of Bila as a typical example utilized by locals. Fish ponds are a common feature of the landscape in Bohemia.
Bohemia in early October. (2007)
Fish pond in Bila, with a chapel beside the pond. (2007)
Some of the old walls and fortifications of Třeboň can still be seen. (2007)
Fish pond near Třeboň. (2007)
Třeboň, itself is definitely worth a visit. The center of town is formed by Masaryk Square fronted by buildings with Renaissance and Baroque façades. The burghers of old made their fortune principally via the fish farming business augmented by the peat business; there are ponds surrounding Třeboň, with one reputedly being the largest fish pond in the world. The Old Town Hall in the square was built in 1563, with the tower added 75 years later. Of course, there is a castle, Třeboň Castle, which is nicely maintained, with a formal garden. Like most everyplace else in middle Europe, the town suffered from the Thirty Years’ War in the 17th century in spite of its fortifications, some of which can still be seen.
Třeboň: Masaryk Square. (2010)
In most of the world, you can buy something made from a dough with fat and sugar. In Třeboň, that could be a trdelnik.
Some houses along a street in Třeboň. (2010)
Courtyard of the Třeboň Castle. (2010)
Not far east of Třeboň is Jindřichův Hradec with its well-preserved old town. Most of the castle visible there today was built in Renaissance style in the 16th century with a 12th century tower and other Gothic elements evident. The interior furnishings were excellent, especially the kitchen, but the most interesting for me was the rondel, which is unique as far as I know. The round stand-alone construction was built for music. Musicians were located on a floor below, so the high-society listeners did not have to mingle with them. The music emanated from a hole in the middle of the floor, which was covered by a thin alabaster vase with its bottom removed so it acted as an amplifier.
Covered well from the 16th century in the courtyard of the Castle in Jindřichův Hradec. Most of the castle structure is Renaissance in style but more than most castles in Bohemia, a large amount of its Gothic origin is evident. (2007)
The rondel at Jindřichův Hradec Castle was built for musical performances. (2007)
From Telč, my wife and I did a day trip in Moravia that entailed visiting the World Heritage Site of The Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora at the edge of the small town of Žďár nad Sázavou. Czech architect Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel provided the unique design for the church in the shape of a ten-pointed star (viewed from above). It was built 1719-1722. The Baroque-Gothic style features five-pointed stars and triads with underlying symbolism for the numbers 3 and 5; indeed, the overall ten-pointed star design should be considered as two overlapping five-pointed stars.
The Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora at Žďár nad Sázavou. (2010)
Ceiling of The Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk on Zelená Hora. (2010)
That day trip included a visit to Pernstein Castle (Hrad Pernštejn) near Nedvědice. The castle was built originally on a rock outcropping in 1285 with changes and additions evident over the next few centuries. The castle suffered some evident damage from a Swedish cannonball, but it did not fall in a three-week siege by Swedish troops. A tour of the interior (no photography permitted) reveals many fascinating furnished rooms and views.
Entrance gate to Pernstein Castle (Hrad Pernštejn) near Nedvědice. (2010)
Pernstein Castle. (2010)
After Prague, Český Krumlov is probably the most-visited place in Czechia – for good reason. The town is beautifully situated on a horseshoe-bend of the Vitava River, with the old town mostly on the inside and the Český Krumlov Zámek (Castle) arrayed along the outside of that bend. Its World Heritage status though comes from the excellent maintenance of the medieval town and especially the castle and its gardens. The castle dates to the 13th century, but much of its appearance now is due to developments in the 16th through 18thcenturies. There are many interesting aspects of the castle (e.g., view over the town and countryside, nice gardens with fountains, furnished rooms), but I personally was taken with its theater, originally built about 1680 and in its current form in 1767. The theater is one of only a few extant Baroque theaters of such high quality in the world. There is a fantastic masquerade ballroom painted by a French artist in 1748 depicting characters in comedies – Scaramouche, Cerano, Harlequin, Piero, especially from Pirandello & Moliere, but also from other French and Italian comedies.
Český Krumlov Castle on the right side and part of the old town on the left side of the Vitava River. (2010)
Český Krumlov old town on the right and part of the castle on the left side of the river. (2010)
The ballroom in Český Krumlov Castle was built in 1767. (2007)
The ballroom in Český Krumlov Castle. (2007)
The very simple townsfolk could look rapturously in the “window” at the beautiful people in the ballroom at Český Krumlov Castle. (2007)
High above the bridge over the Vitava River is the five-story Cloak Bridge connecting the upper part of Český Krumlov Castle to the gardens and the theater. (2010)
Hluboká Chateau adjacent to the town of Hluboká nad Vitavou. (2010)
Český Krumlov and surroundings deserve a couple of days of time, but at least one full day. Sitting at one of the cafes by the river, maybe watching people pass by in kayaks (or renting one yourself) is certainly a peaceful enterprise after spending a half day wandering through the charming old town or another half day touring the castle and its gardens with the baroque fountains.
The second time in that region, we stayed a couple nights not too far away from Český Krumlov in the excellent Steckl Hotel. The hotel is part of the notable 19th century Neo-Gothic Hluboká Chateau, built on top of earlier castles, adjacent to the small town of Hluboká nad Vitavou. Walking the beautiful grounds and the conservatory of the chateau adjacent to the Vitava River is quite relaxing. I recall an excellent dinner at that hotel.
One of the most recent World Heritage Listings comprises “The Great Spa Towns of Europe”. Of the eleven towns in seven countries, three of the towns are in Czechia: Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad), Mariánske Lásně(Marienbad), and Františkovy Lásně. We joined other family members in celebrating a special birthday for my spa-loving sister-in-law for a couple days in Mariánske Lásně a couple years ago. Yes, that’s the same place as in the French New Wave film Last Year at Marienbad.
In Mariánske Lásně, we stayed in the Hotel Nove Lásně shown here. (2019)
Mariánske Lásně (2019)
As intended, a walk through the town is peaceful, and it evokes a sense of 19th century opulence. Some hiking paths are accessible from town and climb surrounding hills. There is a place in town where one can taste water from several different springs with different mineral content gratis; naturally, different minerals are touted for different human ailments. The baths themselves range from those dating from the 19th century to modern – but not quite aquapark. Accomodations and restaurants also tend to be stylistically at least a hundred years old – and comfortable.